Wednesday, January 20, 2010

5th Wolf Complete

Alrighty, managed to get my 5th wolf "complete" (he needs pupils but to be quite honest I don't have a brush small enough to make it happen... :/ )


And now it's off to paint another 5 before the 1st :P

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

2 more wolves done, 1 90% finished

Alrighty, got my "lightbox" correctly set up and finished 2 out of the 3 wolves today, the last guy have only the face and hair left so he'll be finished by tomorrow :D

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Input is, as always, greatly appreciated

Cheers

Sunday, January 17, 2010

3 more enroute!

Alrighty, I've had the apartment for myself Saturday -Monday (that's right, the "vacation" isn't over yet ^^,) and thus I've enjoyed some great live metal DVDs (Amon Amarth, Dark Tranquility, Arch Enemy, Vital Remains, etc.) while painting.

These guys are almost done (well, like 70% done at least :P)

Oh and I'd love some input on what color I should use for my plasma coils on these guys.
I've used green for my Black Legion, Blue for my Ultramarines and I'm thinkin' a bright orange for these guys, but I'm concerned about the amount of red/reddish colors on them already, will it be too much (seeing as they already have red eyes, red shoulder pads and red on the backs of the pelts as well as on the gems) ?

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Comments and Criticism is always wanted and greatly appreciated!

Friday, January 15, 2010

Weathered Wolves.....finally

Sorry for the delay, School and some other things *cough* Dragon Age: Origins *cough* halted my painting progress for a little while, but now I've been working on this tutorial for you guys over about 3 days time. And it's done :D

Step one:

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Basecoat the model with Adeptus Battle Grey

Step 2:

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Drybrush with Fortress Grey

Step 3:

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Wash the model Babab Black

Step 4:

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Drybrush Codex Grey, in this step I try to get more paint where the light is supposed to be hitting the model's surfaces.

Step 5:

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Now Drybrush with fortress Grey again, still keeping in mind where the light is supposed to hit the surfaces (this is only if you want to achieve such an effect on the model).

Step 6:

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Highlight the model with Fortress Grey

Step 7:

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Now I create an 1:10 mix of Vermin Brown : Water and wash the darker/deeper areas of the model.

Step 8:

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Now I create an 1:10 mix of Scorched Brown : Water and go over the entire model, but I try to get more in the darker/deeper parts of the model.

Step 9:

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Now I go back, highlighting all the most prominent areas of the model.
You are now done :D

And just to show you guys why on earth it took 3 days to complete the tutorial, well... I kind of did it on many models at the same time....

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I'm hoping you'll enjoy this tutorial, please comment if you do :)

And I'll try to have 2-3 more models finished with my next post.

Cheers!

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Goldielocks gone bad?

Alrighty, you saw him "completed" in the blood tutorial but he deserves to be shown 100% complete.

(His brother wanted to tag along for the photoshoot as well :P )

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Blood for the.... no wait, thats not right....is it?

Alrighty, since I managed to finish the 2nd space pup just now I am also bringing you the blood tutorial, step by step.

For this you will need:
-Stripple Brush (I cut one of my older drybrushes)
-Tamiya Clar Red Paint (this one in particular is needed)
-Chaos Black + Water (or Black Ink for those that still have it from the time when Citadel still had it in their range.

Step 1:

Stripple Tamiya Clear Red thickly on the places you want blood.

Step 2:

Wait for 30-40 seconds (I usually wait around 15-20 sec but that's because I have a hot lamp close by) which allows the Tamiya color to coagulate a bit.
Now Use the stripple brush to stab at the red, taking away some and giving texture to the painted area (making it look more gory).

Step 3:

Now create some black ink (1:1 Chaos Black : Water) or just use Black ink along with about as much Tamiya Clear Red as seen.
Mix them together and stripple over the clear red on the previously painted area; keep in mind not to cover all the brighter red.

Step 4:

Now redo the process of using an empty stripple brush to stab at the blood and remove the most of it (remember to again wait 30-40 sec for it to coagulate).

And now you're done.
Just to show how it looks on other areas I've made it to look that this model have been walking in/around/on corpses and thus have gotten blood on his boots and in the snow where ha have walked (as well as blood dripped/sprayed from the sword).


I hope you enjoyed the blood, now get busy painting !
(And feel free to toss me links to finished models with this blood process used on them :D )

Cheers

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Furry Tuesday?

Alrighty, today I was SUPPOSED to study, but well, that went out of the window and in flew a cold harsh breeze.
That's right, I'm pretty much finished with my 2nd wolfy.
I redid all pelts, and finished them off with a nice bright contrasting red (this model will be the centerpiece in his pack). I then finished off the skulls mounted onto the chainsword and the bolter, and when I was in the 7th layer I discovered that the tan i was working with was not Bleached Bone, but Kommando Khaki -Nice surprise! (That's why it looked so darn dark, luckily for me I felt it looked better that way than by using the same bright color I use on the ornate Bolter Wolfhead decorations on other marines)...

I still haven't decided if he will get black or blond hair, his base is already done so all needed is the blood effects on his chainsword (which I'll do after the hair) and then he's done.


I also finished my Wolf Priest (building/sculpting) today since I got the top of the staff I needed in the mail yesterday..

I removed that pesky hourglass and replaced it with more furry godness :D


Comments And Criticism always wanted and appreciated.

Blood and corpsepaint tutorial up tomorrow along with 2nd wolf finished :)